Cobbled streets, fountains, and Romanesque churches — walking through Prato’s historic center feels like stepping into a romanticized version of old Europe.
But just beyond the medieval walls, in neighborhoods like Via Pistoiese and Via Fabio Filzi, the atmosphere shifts. Red lanterns sway above supermarkets stocked with Chinese goods, menus advertise noodles and dim sum, and conversations hum in Mandarin and regional dialects.
“It felt disorienting, like stepping into a third- or fourth-tier Chinese county town from the 1990s or 2000s,” recalls Zheng Ningyuan, a Chinese documentary artist who first visited Prato a decade ago.
A New Chapter in Prato’s Story
Prato, long known for luxury brands like Prada and artisanal garment traditions, experienced a dramatic transformation beginning in the late 1980s. Waves of Chinese immigrants — primarily from Zhejiang province — arrived and injected new energy into the textile industry.
By 2021, over 27,000 Chinese residents lived in Prato — around 15% of the population, one of the highest concentrations of Chinese immigrants in Europe. They brought with them a faster, lower-cost production model that disrupted Prato’s traditional craft-based approach and helped sustain the prized “Made in Italy” label.
For many, Italy represented opportunity.
“At that time, Europe seemed like paradise,” recalls Li Qiu (name changed), who migrated in 2007 to work in textiles. After years of saving, she opened her own Chinese restaurant in town. “But now things are different. Regulations are tighter, and business is much harder.”
The ‘Made in Italy’ Debate
While Chinese workers revitalized the industry, they also sparked controversy. Critics argue that they displaced Italian jobs and reshaped Prato into a “Chinatown.” Others question whether garments produced with imported Chinese fabrics but stitched in Italy deserve the “Made in Italy” stamp.
Under EU and Italian regulations, the label depends on the “principle of last substantial transformation.” If the final, key process — such as cutting or sewing — happens in Italy, then the product can legally carry the Made in Italy mark.
For Zheng, the debate cuts deeper than legality:
“Defining quality by whether Chinese made it risks a racist narrative. Many aim for high-quality production. But the cost of Prato’s cheap goods is borne by immigrants.”
Sweatshops and Labor Struggles
Prato’s reputation has also been stained by labor abuses. In 2013, a fire in a Chinese-run factory killed seven workers, prompting Italy to tighten oversight. Yet, a decade later, harsh working conditions remain widespread.
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Some textile workers reportedly work up to 84 hours per week while earning just €800 per month.
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Residence permits are often tied to job contracts, forcing migrants into part-time or informal labor, leaving them vulnerable to exploitation.
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Undocumented workers face even harsher realities, with little protection or bargaining power.
Unions like Sudd Cobas have called for strikes, but fear and economic dependency keep many silent. The exploitation extends beyond Chinese workers — migrants from Pakistan and other nations endure similar struggles.
The ‘Hanger Wars’ and Organized Crime
Prato’s booming textile trade has also attracted organized crime. Gangs have fought violent battles over the lucrative hanger and garment transport market, valued at around €100 million.
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Recent months saw assaults and arson targeting Chinese-run factories.
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In April, Zhang Dayong, a businessman linked to the trade, was shot dead in Rome in what police believe was connected to the so-called “hanger wars.”
Looking Ahead
Prato today is both a symbol of globalization and a flashpoint of cultural tension. Chinese immigrants helped preserve Italy’s fashion dominance but also exposed the dark underbelly of fast production — long hours, low wages, and contested identities.
The future of Prato’s textile industry will depend on finding balance: protecting workers’ rights, preserving authentic craftsmanship, and embracing the diverse community that has reshaped this Tuscan city.
This story is developing as Prato continues to navigate its place between tradition, migration, and globalization.
The post How Chinese Immigrants Transformed Prato’s Textile Industry first appeared on Trusted and Verified USA News.
